14 miles
Caldes de Reis to Padron

Our layover in Caldes de Reis turned out to be a “coindental” beforehand decision. It’s hard to know when planning a route just when or if to take a day off, but God had definitely gone before and knew just the right day that would benefit us the most. Roger has been a trooper and pressed on each day in spite of his knee bothering him. As it turned out our day off from walking and giving it a rest turned out to be such great timing. Today he was so much better and really enjoyed the walk relatively pain free!

With a weather forecast of 100% chance of rain, we set off as early as we could and still be able to see. (Daylight savings kicks in for Spain on Sunday.)

We have packed and repacked our backpacks over and over due to the climate not being at all what we had imagined. It’s much warmer than we had thought it would be, so we’ve shoved a couple of layers (jackets) back into our suitcases and focused more on important things like, ponchos, gaitors, bars, oranges, umbrellas, medicinal supplies like blister packs and lip balm, knee braces, gloves, hats and water bottles. Every item counts if you’re not used to carrying a backpack. Roger actually “trained” with his pack on, while I couldn’t be bothered. (Convinced of the benefits, I am now resolved “next time,” though.)

Our training for the Cotswolds took a year of very focused work. We started at ground zero, diligently increasing the difficulty and length each Sunday until we could hike 13 to 15 miles back to back for two days. For that hike we were preparing for 100 miles in 9 days over some pretty steep (in our opinion) terrain. For the Camino, Roger has diligently gone to the gym at least three days a week, walked in the mornings two miles and done increased hiking in the California hills on Sundays for the past 2.5 months. I have been a complete slacker. OK, I hiked with Roger on Sundays, so that was good. Otherwise, I walked a few days a week at home about 3 miles and it seems the gym that I am now eligible to attend for free (being 66) is just too far, too crowded, too…you know what I mean, right? So, basically, the miracle of the Camino for me is that I’m able to walk two days in a row without dying!

Today we woke up to fresh, cool and delightful smells of rain from the night before. I think I already mentioned that often we are walking on one of the roads built during the Roman Empire…for us we are on Via Romana XIX. I’m consistently overwhelmed by the sheer historical significance of places that we walk. Every pilgrim (peregrino) has a copy of Brierley’s guide to the particular route of the Camino he is doing. We have come to appreciate John (Brierly) so much and refer to him often as our constant companion and his precious notes about points of interest or how well he points out the logistics of our path.

Today according to John, our now close friend, it’s going to be a day mostly off the asphalt and into the woods winding in and out of little country neighborhoods…

…where women still collect around the fish monger’s delivery truck to choose the best fish…in this case causing what seemed to be a highly animated dispute over either pricing or product!

…and bread is still delivered daily…

…and chickens or dogs or cats either greet us or warn us away…

Often we can hear the noise of traffic hidden by trees or a silent train swish by above or beneath us…

…and we are forever watchful for our next yellow marker…either a yellow arrow or a scallop shell…

…and finally with feet burning, we made our way into Padron…

…where we passed by, and took advantage, of the first public bathroom we’ve seen on the Camino!